Savouring Abkhazia: Where to Eat and What to Try

There's a saying that to truly know a place, you must taste its food. Tucked away between the majestic Caucasus Mountains and the shimmering Black Sea, Abkhazia is a treasure trove of culinary delights waiting to be discovered. From cosy seaside cafes serving steaming hot achashv to historic restaurants dishing up time-honoured recipes, the local food scene is as diverse as it is delightful.

Whether you're planning your first visit or returning to this enchanting corner of the world, this guide will take you on a mouth-watering journey through some of Abkhazia's best dining spots. From traditional family-run establishments to trendy new restaurants, from hearty local dishes to international cuisine, there's something here for every palate and pocket.

So, let's embark on this culinary adventure together, shall we?

Nartaa, Sukhum

No trip to Abkhazia is complete without indulging in its traditional cuisine, and Nartaa in Sukhum is the place to start. Located on the Makhadzhir Embankment, this iconic cafe is famed for its achashv—a boat-shaped bread stuffed with cheese, akin to a Georgian khachapuri. The cosy wooden cabins and a second-floor veranda offer breathtaking views of the sea and palm trees, making your dining experience all the more memorable.

Insider's Tip: Begin with the smallest size of achashv; it's incredibly filling. Pair it with succulent smoked meats, shashlik (grilled skewered meat), and a side of tangy plum or tomato sauce. Wash it all down with local lemonades like "Nart" or "Pear", or opt for a refreshing feijoa, peach, or grape compote. For a truly authentic taste, try the Abkhazian fresh mandarin juice.

Average bill for two: 1,300–1,500 RUB ($13–$15)

Black River Apatskha, Gudauta

For an authentic rural dining experience, head to the Black River apatskha in Gudauta. Set against the soothing sounds of a bubbling stream, this eatery serves traditional dishes cooked over an open fire. Here, you can savour abysta (a cornmeal porridge), smoked meats and cheeses, all accompanied by locally produced wine.

Average bill for two: 950–1,000 RUB ($9.50–$10)

Gagripsh, Gagra

In Gagra, immerse yourself in history at Gagripsh, one of the city's landmarks. This wooden restaurant was purchased by Prince Oldenburg at the Paris Exhibition and assembled in Abkhazia without a single nail. The menu offers a wide array of local dishes, allowing you to sample the rich flavours of Abkhazian cuisine in a setting that's both elegant and steeped in history.

Average bill for two: 2,000–2,800 RUB ($20–$28)

Sail, Gal

If you're venturing to the easternmost region, Gal, make sure to visit the Sail restaurant. Known for its exceptional khinkali (dumplings), many locals claim they're the best in the country. Don't miss out on the ailadzh (a traditional dish), walnut sauce with spices (arashykh), aubergine rolls with nuts, and achapa (cornbread).

Average bill for two: 2,000–2,500 RUB ($20–$25)

For Meat Lovers

Mukhus, Sukhum

Meat enthusiasts will find their haven at Mukhus in Sukhum. This cafe transports you back to the Soviet era with its meticulously designed interior. The star of the menu is khinkali—juicy dumplings filled with beef, pork, or even fried versions. They pair wonderfully with garlic sauce, a rustic vegetable salad, and a cold pint of beer.

Average bill for two: 970–1,000 RUB ($9.70–$10)

Khinkali in Gal

Locals often drive to Gal specifically for khinkali, swearing by their superior taste. Nearly every establishment in Gal serves them, but for an authentic experience, Sail is the go-to spot.

+ Ajika [Adjika - Abkhaz: аџьыка]: The Fiery Heart of Abkhazian Cuisine

+ Abkhazian Cuisine

+ Wines of Abkhazia

+ Abkhazia: Ancients of the Caucasus (Healthy at 100), by John Robbins

European and International Flavours

Burger Port, Sukhum

If you're craving quality fast food with a view, Burger Port on the Makhadzhir Embankment overlooks the maritime port. The menu features hearty burgers on ciabatta and signature seasoned fries. Portions are generous—so much so that even a "Caesar" salad can be filling. For dessert, try the freshly baked croissants with chocolate, raspberry, or passion fruit, accompanied by a cooling lemonade or an iced latte. Their signature alcoholic cocktails are also a hit among patrons.

Average bill for two: 1,400–2,000 RUB ($14–$20)

Sole Mio, Sukhum

Pizza lovers should not miss Sole Mio, a quaint pizzeria located in the heart of Sukhum near the city administration building. With a beautiful veranda, it's the perfect spot to enjoy authentic Italian pizza.

Average bill for two: 1,300–1,500 RUB ($13–$15)

Mayak Gastropub, Sukhum

For those seeking a blend of craft beer and gourmet dishes, Mayak Gastropub is the place to be. Situated on the grounds of the Sukhum Brewery, it offers fresh local beer and a menu that includes grilled dorado, beef medallions, slow-cooked beef ribs, and duck with apples.

Average bill for two: 2,400–3,000 RUB ($24–$30)

Simona Food, Gudauta

In Gudauta, Simona Food is popular among locals for its homemade "Napoleon" cake, profiteroles, and freshly baked bread. The menu also features burgers and breakfast options like rice porridge with coconut milk and spiced pear.

Average bill for two: 1,800–2,300 RUB ($18–$23)

Abaata, Gagra

Abaata in Gagra promises to delight with its succulent confit duck leg served with fruits. The menu also boasts Kamchatka crab and English rabbit dishes. The restaurant often features live music, and the owners have recently updated the interior for the season.

Average bill for two: 2,000–2,500 RUB ($20–$25)

Turkish and Asian Delights

Turkish Restaurants

Over the past few years, Turkish cuisine has made a significant mark in Abkhazia, thanks to entrepreneurs from the Abkhaz diaspora in Turkey. In Sukhum alone, there are three Turkish restaurants—Chegem, Chegem Port, and Abi. Here, you can indulge in tender kebabs, honeyed baklava with tea, and spicy lahmacun. All establishments feature verandas with excellent views. Abi has also opened in Gagra and has quickly become one of the most popular spots.

Average bill for two: 1,600–2,000 RUB ($16–$20)

Leon, Sukhum

If you're a fan of Japanese cuisine, book a table at Leon in Sukhum. Known for its sushi and rolls, patrons from all over Abkhazia flock here for their famous baked set. The menu also includes wok noodles and various types of Tom Yum soup.

Average bill for two: 2,000–2,800 RUB ($20–$28)

Coffee and Desserts

Brikhallovka, Sukhum

Coffee culture is thriving in Abkhazia, and for a traditional experience, enjoy a cup of Turkish-style coffee at Brikhallovka in Sukhum, with sea views framed by palm trees, or at a cafe by the swan pond in New Athos.

Average bill for two: 100–250 RUB ($1–$2.50)

Take Coffee, New Athos

For those who prefer alternative options like soy or lactose-free milk, Take Coffee in New Athos offers frappes and smoothies, along with delectable cheesecakes and trifles.

Average bill for two (with dessert): 940–1,000 RUB ($9.40–$10)

Brigantine, Sukhum

Brigantine is one of Sukhum's trendiest coffee spots, often bustling with customers. From cappuccinos to lemonades and smoothies, the menu caters to all tastes. Don't miss their French macarons.

Average bill for two (with dessert): 940–1,000 RUB ($9.40–$10)

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Brioche, Gagra and Breeze, Ochamchira

In Gagra, the youth gather at Brioche to sip coffee with meringue rolls, while in Ochamchira, the newly opened Breeze has visitors raving about their iced lattes.

• Average bill for two (with dessert) in Gagra: 1,000 RUB ($10)
• Average bill for two (without dessert) in Ochamchira: 400 RUB ($4)

Hidden Gems and Newcomers

Oyster Gastro Wine Bar, Sukhum

Oyster is a new addition to Sukhum's culinary scene and is the first restaurant in Abkhazia to offer live seafood. The menu features mussels, tartare, jamon, and crab legs, catering to the most discerning palates.

Average bill for two: 4,000–5,000 RUB ($40–$50)

Chaplin Space, Sukhum

Opened just in time for the summer season, Chaplin Space on the Makhadzhirov Embankment offers dishes like ptitim with homemade pesto and cheesy pasta with crispy bacon.

Average bill for two: 1,700–2,000 RUB ($17–$20)

Dolce Vita, Sukhum

Located within the Riviera hotel in Sukhum, Dolce Vita is renowned for its beautiful presentation and open kitchen—a rarity in Abkhazia.

Average bill for two: 3,000–3,500 RUB ($30–$35)

Meat Yard, Sukhum

A paradise for cheese lovers, Meat Yard serves suluguni cheese in its own whey, still hot, accompanied by freshly baked lavash. Situated just ten minutes from Sukhum's centre on Chanba Street, it offers a serene setting by the river.

Average bill for two: 2,600–3,000 RUB ($26–$30)

Abkhazia's culinary landscape is as diverse and rich as its cultural heritage. From traditional apatskhas serving age-old recipes to modern eateries offering international cuisines, there's something to satisfy every palate. So the next time you find yourself in this picturesque country, make sure to embark on a gastronomic adventure, you won't be disappointed.